Your car is at the dealer, so any Internet troubleshooting now is moot. But some background - what's the history of recalls/Stop Sales on the car (if you know)? There have been several - were any or all of these applied? What's the version of the OS (most current is 3/2023.65 - and another is pending)? You also didn't mention rebooting the car (turning it on and off would likely do nothing). If you're unfamiliar with this procedure, it consists of holding down the Volume button until the screen goes blank, then releasing - one of the first things to try. Any advice now is speculative, but from the brief description of multiple failures it sounds like software (which is what most of this car is about). Could also possibly mean a controller failure like the technical control unit (TCU) or head unit - hardware necessary for controlling the software. Your dealer will collect a list of fault codes and hopefully track down the cause, and with luck just require updating or flashing the software, because getting a hardware component in less than weeks can be problematic, although improved. So you could be looking at in the shop essentially overnight, for days, or for months, depending. They should give you a loaner for a prolonged repair, or at worst, ultimately a new lease. Looking forward to hearing results....

 

Thanks for the quick reply. You’re right that troubleshooting is moot at this point; I suppose I was more interested in determining if there’s a broad history of this level of failure. I’m not feeling the most confident in my purchase at the moment.

The car was on 3/2023.65 and there were a few recalls listed on the sheet I was provided at purchase, but I don’t remember them offhand… will need to dig up that piece of paper.

Appreciate the tip about how to truly reboot the car - I didn’t know that. Also good to know what timelines could be. Fingers crossed for a quick resolution.

Will update when I know more. Thanks again.

 

It actually sounds familiar from the i3. It would act crazy when the 12v battery is low or bad.

 

Could also be a possibility - the 12v battery is actually the heart of the car, and without it nothing else works (although generally a fault just stops the car with no display). It recharges off the main battery, so could be a bad connection or just depleted. Your list of faults and notifications actually looks like the dealer didn't clear them after a major recall update, but in that case the car should work, just with multiple notifications displayed. For so many unrelated defects to pop up, it certainly looks like a list of leftover codes, and usually (although it looks dramatic) the fix is fairly simple and not multiple system failures. It's actually a pretty reliable car, powerful, fun to drive and very capable (present seeming disaster aside ), and likely the resolution will be "Oops, we forgot to do X" from the dealer. Unfortunately, like almost all new car models, especially EVs, the logic that controls almost everything related to making it go is tied up in the flow of electrons to its central computer brain and not fuel to its carburetor, and failures are often obscure to trace. Hoping for a quick resolution for you....

 

The good news is that you got safely off the road. Our cars are really computers on wheels and while mostly trouble free, a freak event like this can happen with a brand new vehicle. I've been on the Audi etron forums for over three years and this type of complete power failure has happened with a few etrons too. They were also able to get off the road safely. It appears that both Audi & BMW have some kind of safety system that gives you enough power to get off the road after a major power failure. Remember this can happen with an ICE vehicle too. I hope it's an easy fix (parts available) and glad you are safe.

 

Unfortunately cjtylr you seem to have a VERY faulty vehicle - understatement of the week -so much so that I’ve not seen many of your individual fault codes discussed on these forums let alone the cluster of errors you have???

I can only imagine that there is one common denominator / root cause triggering all the errors but what that error is I do not know. Maybe the 12v battery but that’s purely a guess - not based on any fact or knowledge.

Good luck and hope it’s fixed soon.

 

The source of power is not 12v battery while running. Should electricity flow from high voltage battery to 12v charger to any car electronics? If 12v battery is bad, it should provide message to indicate that immediately but shouldn't turn off the car since driver can still drive it to repairing center. 12v battery is not the heart of an EV. You can still drive ICE car after 12v battery fails as long as engine is running.

 

If your 12v battery dies in an EV (many or most EVs - including the iX), none of your electronics will work - your locks, your accessories, your lights, your computers, your displays. The 12v system also turns ON the main battery. No 12v, no drive battery - hence "the heart of the car." An EV is, obviously, not an ICE vehicle. The 12v is not charged by the alternator and a running engine. So keeping the 12v charged is REALLY important, although it usually has some charge. When it doesn't, you're walking (until you charge it), and you may or may not get a notification. You will also need to replace your AGM battery in the iX (that's right - it's not Li-Ion) about every 3-4 years, just like an ICE car. All of the fault codes from the OP could indeed be the result of a faulty 12v with a low charge or faulty connector, or just a bad battery, which is the discussion at hand.

 

A simple experiment: disconnect your 12v and see if your car starts. The main role of the 12v is to trip low-voltage relays and actually wake up the HV battery, which powers down when asleep. Most of the other auxiliary systems run off the 12v by design. But the argument is circular, because a BEV won't work without both. For a reasonable physiologic analogy, the 12v is the heart, the drive battery is the muscular system, powered by the brain (computer), controlled by the nervous system (sensors and displays), which are powered by the heart (12v), surrounded by the skeletal system (frame and body). Not as complex as human anatomy, but complicated enough in its own way!

Why Electric Cars Have Regular 12V Car Batteries (jalopnik.com)

 

A simple experiment: disconnect your 12v and see if your car start… a BEV won't work without both.

It will. Once the car is awake, the 12V battery is offline. It’s the fart, not the heart. The car’s computers run on 12V, but the battery is an accessory. The HV provides the 12V after it is awake.

 

Hey all, I’ve been at work all day - just wanted to say thanks for the additional replies. I’m glad to hear this seems way out of the ordinary and am hoping it’s something as simple as the 12V or software.

I’ll post again when I hear from the tech; my dealership said they only have three people certified to work on EVs and they’re backed up, so it might be a while (not quite what I was expecting to hear from what I was told is the second largest dealership in the US). Surprisingly, they had an iX loaner, so at least I’m still able to get a feel for the car.

 

12v battery is a legacy device inherited from ICE cars. It provides power to onboard electronics when main battery is asleep and wake the main battery if extra power is needed. If the main battery is outside operating condition, 12v will spend its energy alone to heat up or cool down the main battery. Tesla is swtiching 12v to lithium-ion battery. BMW should too. In short term it would solve most problems. In long run, it would be nice to partition the main battery to 2 separated sections or more. The sum is still over 100kwh, but each unit has its own charger. So in an empty charging station, pepole can parallel park and use two or three charging station to charge up in 1/3 of time. Of course, the charging station has to be able to offer max output per port, not like the EA throttle control junk. The car also has 2 80V lithium battery like the lawn mower. But its function is very minimum most time and only needs to wake up a section of main battery. So the old days of out of 12v battey issue will almost certainly disappear.

 

This is all great information. A gentleman who was charging his Ioniq 5 next to me said to always have a set of good jumper cables with me. I said "What? Are you serious?" He said that EVs have 12v batteries that if they go bad or lose charge, the EV will not be able to do anything. So I guess it is true.

My question is now, where is the 12v battery in the IX? My guess is under the hood that BMW doesn't want us to open. Lots of questions come into mind now, but that would probably be for a different post altogether.

 

This is all great information. A gentleman who was charging his Ioniq 5 next to me said to always have a set of good jumper cables with me. I said "What? Are you serious?" He said that EVs have 12v batteries that if they go bad or lose charge, the EV will not be able to do anything. So I guess it is true.

My question is now, where is the 12v battery in the IX? My guess is under the hood that BMW doesn't want us to open. Lots of questions come into mind now, but that would probably be for a different post altogether.

Yes, this is actually super important with all EVs. The Ioniq 5, in particular, had an issue where the car would discharge the 12V battery and strand people. So all of the I5 captains should have one. But they are key equipment for every car, not just EV.

I have one of these; it is super popular among the EV world.

Amazon.com: GOOLOO GP3000 3000A Jump Starter,12V Car Battery Jump Starter for up to 9.0L Gas Engines & 7.0L Diesel, Supersafe Lithium Jump Box Battery Booster Pack, Auto Battery Starter with USB Quick Charge : Automotive

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www.amazon.com

No clue where the iX's jump points are - I guess I should figure that out...

 

Hi
The 12V battery is indeed under the hood.
It is extremely easy to open the hood - but for some dumb reason BMW did not include a hood stay or gas struts on he hood - so you need to hold it up yourself!
The dealer has two special pins that are put into holes on the hood brackets - that them stops it from closing.
I opened mine the other day - it was very dusty under there and i removed the dead leaves that were blocking the air intake vents just beneath the front of the windscreen.
Picture of the dogs dinner layout beneath the hood below - no wonder they are embarrassed to let owners open it using the normal methods!

Cheers
Steve

 

You might want to invest in a set of these (Part #: 83305A3CD29) if you plan on opening the hood frequently:

Or just a set of #2 Phillips screwdrivers or a prop bar. BMW made it difficult to open the hood because of all the pretty orange wires criss-crossing everything, and because you need to know what you're doing when you connect the low-voltage battery to anything, but it is user-accessible. The main thing to avoid other than being electrocuted is not to damage the paint on the A pillars with the (very) sharp corners of the hood when closing.

 

And I thought it was because they were embarrassed about the haphazard layout.

 

That, and I expect their extreme corporate aversion to liability...

 

So....can someone share this extremely easy way to open the hood?

 

Here you go: Opening BMW IX Hood

It is simple. Just have something to slide in the hole so it stays open.

 

There are two pins under the dashboard on each side of the car. If two people pull them simultaneously, it will unlock the hood. No recommended by BMW. The dealer also told me what Paladin1 mentioned, it's difficult to close the hood without damage the seal and paint.
One of those days someone needs to change and re-program the 12v battery when it dies. Hopefully by then, there will be some DIY step by step guides.

 

Actually you can pull the loop on one side and walk over and do the same on the other side and you can then open the hood. I’ve done it a couple of times out of curiosity with no negative consequences. On the other hand you can’t do much under the hood so it’s I don’t think I’ll be trying it again soon.

 

It’s a lot easier to fill the screen wash with the hood up😉

 

Hi, I’m at a bit of a loss here - searching for any similar experiences to help me figure out what could be going on. New to these forums, apologies if I’m breaking any rules. For what it’s worth, I did try searching for similar posts before starting a new thread. —- Following the new July incentives, I traded in my Model Y and leased a new 2023 iX M60 on saturday. Drove it home without issue, charged it to 80%, and took it out this morning for my commute to work. About 5 minutes into the drive, I accelerated from a red light, the car lurched, almost all drive power went away (on a 60mph road), and every warning sound you could imagine started blaring. A dozen errors popped up on the screen (pictured), power steering seemed to fail as the car was very difficult to turn, the accelerator pedal barely responded, and just taking my foot off the brake made the car accelerate quite rapidly. To be honest, it was pretty scary. I pulled to the side of the road, put on my emergency lights, and tried turning the car off and on again. Nothing changed. I limped back home and my car was towed to the dealership about an hour later. I’m waiting to hear back from the service department, but I’m curious if anyone has experienced anything like this? I’m pretty upset at the general inconvenience, but a bit more so at my brand new, very expensive car trying to kill me on my second drive. Thanks in advance, appreciate any guidance/thoughts. View attachment 4481 View attachment 4482 View attachment 4483

Wow! That must have been super scary. I purchased an M60 IX 2023 it has been in the shop over 5x now. My warning is always high voltage issue and drive train issues. We took it on a road trip in June to Houston we are in San Antonio. Stopped to charge it on DC and would not charge. Made it back home with 16 miles to spare. Road side services stated it was the vehicle and not the charging station. Back to shop they said it was a coolant pump that had went out. It is currently back in the shop over 2 weeks now with the same high voltage failure and drive train issues. Very frustrated. So much I am trading it in for an IX M50. I hope they can get your issues solved and keep your vehicle out of the service department. Best of luck.

 

Ok, I have just had a real life 12 v issue with my iX50. Owned about 10 months about 8000 miles. Went to my car, would not wake up, could not get in. BMW tow service took 2 hours to figure out how to get in and tow the car. It was locked like a brick. Car was at dealer for the week. They say it was how the 12 v was talking to the car. 12v was dead and car was impenetrable. Everything seems to be fine since they replaced certain electronics re th 12 v.

 

^This. That's why a working, charged 12v battery is important for the operation of your EV. No, it's not just an "accessory," and no, it's not just for starting the drive battery. It is not like just firing up the starter motor in an ICE. It probably didn't escape your notice that without the 12v battery operational, you can't get in the car to open the hood (easily - mechanical key). To recharge the 12v battery. Without the 12v correctly hooked up to an off or running car, your car won't operate - correctly or at all. Period. BMW is mute about what specifically the 12v battery actually drives in their iX, but the answer is - lots of stuff. Important stuff. 12-volt stuff.

 

Yes, BMW did it weird, but they won't say how weird. The flurry of error codes (like the above) can result from a wonky and seemingly completely unrelated low voltage on the lead-acid battery. That's why it would be really nice if they someday decided a Li-ion battery would be a good idea, that would at least last through the warranty period.

 

I always carry key fob. If 12v battery is dead on the road, I can use the physical key to open the door mechanically and pull the double lever to open the hood and jump start the battery like old ICE car.

 

Did all that and got in.. The car was still dead. He jumped the 12 v but unless the hood is secured car wwon't operate. It took two hours to get it (on Dollies) out of my garage. If 12 v is dead, car will not operate, wheels will not turn.

 

There must be sensors somewhere in the hood because myBMW app has a hood open indicator. Maybe locate that and tape it up. Many new computer cases and electronics have intrusion detector. Congress ought to pass the laws that allow consumers to fix their own stuffs. These corporations have gone too far to leverage IP laws to control our freedom.

 

Hi, I’m at a bit of a loss here - searching for any similar experiences to help me figure out what could be going on. New to these forums, apologies if I’m breaking any rules. For what it’s worth, I did try searching for similar posts before starting a new thread.

—-

Following the new July incentives, I traded in my Model Y and leased a new 2023 iX M60 on saturday. Drove it home without issue, charged it to 80%, and took it out this morning for my commute to work.

About 5 minutes into the drive, I accelerated from a red light, the car lurched, almost all drive power went away (on a 60mph road), and every warning sound you could imagine started blaring. A dozen errors popped up on the screen (pictured), power steering seemed to fail as the car was very difficult to turn, the accelerator pedal barely responded, and just taking my foot off the brake made the car accelerate quite rapidly. To be honest, it was pretty scary.

I pulled to the side of the road, put on my emergency lights, and tried turning the car off and on again. Nothing changed. I limped back home and my car was towed to the dealership about an hour later.

I’m waiting to hear back from the service department, but I’m curious if anyone has experienced anything like this? I’m pretty upset at the general inconvenience, but a bit more so at my brand new, very expensive car trying to kill me on my second drive.

Thanks in advance, appreciate any guidance/thoughts.

View attachment 4481

View attachment 4482 View attachment 4483

Hi, I’m at a bit of a loss here - searching for any similar experiences to help me figure out what could be going on. New to these forums, apologies if I’m breaking any rules. For what it’s worth, I did try searching for similar posts before starting a new thread.

—-

Following the new July incentives, I traded in my Model Y and leased a new 2023 iX M60 on saturday. Drove it home without issue, charged it to 80%, and took it out this morning for my commute to work.

About 5 minutes into the drive, I accelerated from a red light, the car lurched, almost all drive power went away (on a 60mph road), and every warning sound you could imagine started blaring. A dozen errors popped up on the screen (pictured), power steering seemed to fail as the car was very difficult to turn, the accelerator pedal barely responded, and just taking my foot off the brake made the car accelerate quite rapidly. To be honest, it was pretty scary.

I pulled to the side of the road, put on my emergency lights, and tried turning the car off and on again. Nothing changed. I limped back home and my car was towed to the dealership about an hour later.

I’m waiting to hear back from the service department, but I’m curious if anyone has experienced anything like this? I’m pretty upset at the general inconvenience, but a bit more so at my brand new, very expensive car trying to kill me on my second drive.

Thanks in advance, appreciate any guidance/thoughts.

View attachment 4481

View attachment 4482 View attachment 4483

Good afternoon,

I, too have experienced the same issue you report. I owned a 2024 iX M60 for just under two weeks. Problems with the car first showed up the day I took delivery. The navigation program would not load, and after doing a couple of system soft resets (holding down the volume button for 30 seconds), the nav system was still out to lunch. A trip to the dealership corrected the problem after an hour in the shop—no real explanation for what happened.

Next, charging issues started to show up. The first couple of times I attached my wall-mounted Electrify America charger to the car, everything was fine, and it charged up to 80% as requested. Suddenly, the car would no longer take charges for more than 5-8 minutes before it terminated the charging process. Calls to EA and BMW iX support resulted in finger-pointing back and forth. I decided to investigate this via forums like iXFORUMS and others. A few folks reported problems with the car's CCU (charging control unit) as the culprit. The CCUs were manufactured for BMW by Panasonic of Germany and had been incorrectly wired when built.

Last Saturday, I was driving the car when the same thing that happened to you happened to me. I was surprised and thankful I was not on a major interstate but a lightly-traveled back road. After two attempts to start the car, I finally got it to stay running so I could make it home. More research on the web showed fingers pointing again to defective CCUs and that the NHTSA was issuing a recall on the iX M60, iX50, and i4 models on August 8th, 2023, to address this issue.

On Monday, I brought the car to a local dealership, provided several dozen pages of forum and NHTSA printouts, and waited. Within 24 hours, the service department confirmed that the CCU was causing the problems and that one would need to be ordered. The problem was there were NO CCUs in the USA or Germany. The ETA for getting one was "unknown." The dealer would not release the car due to the NHTSA pending recall/safety issues.

The outcome? I'm getting a new car. BMW is taking back my iX M60, allowing me to order a new X5 M60i instead. No way do I want to dive into another iX M60 of the same model year. Who knows what might be wrong with that car as well? I had traded in my 2021 X5 M50i for the iX M60, so I know how outstanding the gas-powered X5 is with the gutsy V8. I tried to be environmentally "good" by buying the iX, but it seems the car is not ready for prime time yet!

I should have my new X5 M60i in late August or early September. The dealership has been AMAZING and has made this whole mess bearable. They provided me with a beautiful 7 series to drive until the new car arrives.

I hope this is helpful. Clearly, BMW has some growing pains associated with the flagship EV. Knowing the company, they WILL sort this out in time. Tough on us early adopters, however!

 

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2023/RCLRPT-23V449-1660.PDF

Looks like the exact problem I was suspecting. Defect CCU that causing issues even when the car is in drive ready mode.

Assuming the rest ix has healthy 12v battery and CCU, we still need to pay attention to the health of that battery. Does anyone know any OBD2 device that can registry new battery and retrieve all the error code and existing status from ix?

BMW typically takes 3 attempts to get things right.
i3 is the first, ix is the second, the new i3 2025 would be the third (maybe the ix 2026/27 w/ 800v battery would be the 2.5 attempt)
ID 9 is the first attempt to use common OS framework, ID 10 would be 2nd, ID 11 would be the one that streamlines the software as service on demand

 

Hey all, finally have a chance to follow-up. I got my car back late last week and it was indeed CCU related as mentioned by a couple folks above. I was told it was a software-only issue, and the service order said "REPROGRAM AND RECODE CCU AND COMPLETE VEHICLE. CLEAR FAULTS. ROAD TEST CAR 30 MILES WITH NO FURTHER PROBLEMS."

I had a bit of a back and forth with my service advisor to ensure that this will not happen again, but he wouldn’t commit. I’ve driven about 200 miles since I got it back and haven’t run into the issue again, so I’m hopeful but wary considering the posts above from pfiedler and bmwix1.

In the meantime, the car is headed back to the shop tomorrow to evaluate air bubbles in the roof that I thought were water droplets from the wash/detail after purchase.

 

FYI, not sure this is related.

BMW i Forums - View Single Post - Fluttering/buffeting noise near front of pano roof?

Forum for BMW 1-Series 3-Series 5-Series 7-Series M3 M5 M6 Z4 X1 X3 X5 X6 Z2 Z4 325i 330i 335i 535i 550i 755i BMW Forums

bmwi.bimmerpost.com

There is thin PDLC film in between the two layers of glasses. When electricity passes through it dims the roof. This looks like a factory fault that failed to lay the film properly without any air in between.

Also just make sure inside the cabin there is no layer of protect film that is supposed to be peeled off during delivery. Even there is one, don't peel it yourself. Let the dealer do their job.